Highland Clothing...

[tanya.bailey]

Hey all-
Just wondering what did women traditionally wear for clothing in the highlands? Did they have something similar to a kilt? (or did they wear them as well?) I am just curious for a class project I am working on, I did some research but all I have been able to find it that they wore tartan sashes.
Thanks for the help(again)

[PADDYBOY]

Hope this helps tanya. I copied it from a sit called 'highland attire'

1314 to Late 1500's
During this period, the women dressed in a similar fashion to the men--in the tunic (leine*), worn to ankle length, and cloak (brat*). The tunic can be made of wool or linen and can have either elbow or wrist-length sleeves. The sleeves were usually fringed, as was the hem of the tunic rather than a stitched hem. The tunic can be belted with same fabric, leather or rope--either tied or simple buckle. In this period, the more natural colors are the most appropriate with small amounts of color such as saffron or other yellows--- although other colors mentioned before add interest and variation so we don't all look the same.
The cloak or mantle was an outer garment and would have been made of wool, simple check or tartan design, or of animal hide or fur. This provided warmth and protection from cold, rain and snow. The cloak would probably have been fastened by a brooch or pin called a pennanular, most likely made of brass. In earlier times a cruder wooden, bone or shell fastener might have been utilized.
Footwear also would have been the same as men's. Although women usually went barefoot, certainly brogs* and cuarans* of hide or fur would have been used in the colder months. To wear something on your feet is a personal choice and is probably the most difficult item for us to find unless you can make something for yourself. Certainly a simple, plain leather moccasin can suffice as long as it doesn't look like a modern bedroom slipper or an Indian moccasin. Obviously, tan, brown, black or other natural color is the best choice. If your footwear has a sole of synthetic material, and it is very inconspicuous, it is acceptable.
Information on what women wore on their heads has , thus far, eluded us. Our advice here is that you may wear nothing on your head for this time period---or---if you have a short and/or modern hairdo, covering it up with the kertch gives a more "authentic" look.


Late 1500's to 1746
Just when the old style woman's tunic/cloak ceased to be worn is unknown, but it most likely coincided with the advent of the belted plaid somewhere in the mid-to-late 1500's. Naturally, the ladies wanted their own version of the breacan fheile* and the arisaid* was the result. This was made from 2 1/2 to 3 yds. of double-width (54 to60") wool worn lengthwise to ankles and belted around the waist with the upper portion drawn around the shoulders. This was fastened by a pin at the breast. The excess fabric created a cape over the shoulders which could be pulled up over the head like a hood for protection from inclement weather. The pictures at the end of this section will give a better idea what it looked like and a demonstration of how to put it on is easier to understand than the written explanation!
It was very common for the arisaid to be striped, or of tartan with a white background which has, erroneously, been considered a more "feminine color", even though we see the modern "dress" tartans of today with white backgrounds. A better explanation of this is that dyeing wool was a long and expensive process. Therefore, the necessity for the men to wear darker colors for camouflage in hunting and fighting took precedence, thus the women were left with the natural color wool.
The arisaid was strictly an outer garment like a coat, not a combination of a principal as well as an outer garment like the belted plaid was. It started to go out of fashion around 1700, and by the mid-1700's was almost non-existent. Women continued to wear the arisaid , now referred to as a plaid* in another style---around the shoulders like a long shawl which could still be pulled up over their heads if need be.
The women's actual costume consisted of an undergarment called a chemise, a skirt or petticoat and some sort of bodice--be it a jacket, vest or shortgown. Common women's dress of the day was the same as the English or other European women wore. Except for the arisaid or plaid, there was nothing distinctively "Scottish" about their fashion, and thus, not much was ever written about the remainder of their attire, as it was considered unremarkable by the observers of the day.
The chemise was strictly an undergarment which doubled as a nightgown. It had a drawstring neckline and sleeves and fancy ones would have ruffles. Over this was worn the skirt or petticoat. The style was gathered at the waist, in those days, by a drawstring. We certainly can use more modern methods such as a waistband with elastic in the casing (it doesn't show!) or buttons. Some sort of bodice was always worn to cover the upper half of the chemise. This could be a sleeveless vest which either laced up front or back, or the front could be pinned to keep closed. This was less common than a jacket or shortgown, however, which had sleeves and pinned in the front in lieu of buttons.
Footwear, again, is optional. Women, for the most part, especially in rural areas, did not wear shoes except for the one pair they might own and saved for going to kirk(church). Again, not much is found in description so we refer you to the pictorials. However, in the late 1600's, there is one reference to ladies shoes with double soles and leather heels at 20 shillings Scot---again, for the well-to-do!
Hose or stockings are mentioned in some costuming books as worn by some women. The description is vague and one is welcomed to try to decipher it! As this is one of those items of clothing that doesn't show under the skirt, it is not essential to pay too much attention to this. Certainly, if you wear hose, try to wear something dark or beige and non-descript which won't call attention to your ankles when you walk (like neon colors or athletic socks) Black, brown or beige tights or high socks are a good choice.
The tradition of the female covering her head in some fashion or another upon reaching a certain age or marriage is not exclusive to Scotland. This has been true throughout many cultures including Europe for centuries and continues, even today, in many third world countries.
This custom was taken very seriously in Scotland--especially in the Highlands--as it was tied to religious beliefs. In those days, one did not want to be accused of non-religious beliefs.....being convicted of witchcraft had very final results!
The kertch (currac*) was worn by all women once they reached a certain age and, by custom, the morning after marriage. For many a woman, this was her finest and most treasured article of clothing. Women of means had several kertches.
The kertch is a piece of white linen measuring one yd square. It was traditionally rolled from one corner in half towards the center, thus creating a triangle symbolizing the Trinity. The rolled band was centered on the forehead at the hairline and the ends tied or pinned at the back of the neck. Folding the square in half to form the triangle works as well.

[tanya.bailey]

That's great! Thanks so much, I had been unable to find anything!

[PADDYBOY]

Originally Posted by tanya.bailey

That's great! Thanks so much, I had been unable to find anything!

You're welcome.

[Auld Chiel]

Here's a link to a history of traditional women's attire in Scotland that includes some pictures: Welcome to Clan Gregor

[wullie m]

This "Arisaid" thing, looks more or less, what Newhaven fishwives wore in the 1800s. Google "Newhaven Fishwives". wullie m.